cygorx
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| Joined: 09 Nov 2012 |
| Total Posts: 668 |
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| 21 Dec 2012 10:07 PM |
Post pyrotechnic ingredients and the like.
Plastic explosives from bleach!
Potassium chlorate is an extremely volatile explosive compound, and has been used in the past as the main explosive filler in grenades, land mines, and mortar rounds by such countries as France and Germany. Common household bleach contains a small amount of potassium chlorate, which can be extracted by the procedure that follows. First off, you must obtain: 1.A heat source (hot plate, stove, etc.) 2.A hydrometer, or battery hydrometer 3.A large Pyrex, or enameled steel container (to weigh chemicals) 4.Potassium chloride(sold as a salt substitute at health and nutrition stores) Take one gallon of bleach, place it in the container, and begin heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63 grams of potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being heated. Constantly check the solution being heated with the hydrometer, and boil until you get a reading of 1.3. If using a battery hydrometer, boil until you read a FULL charge. Take the solution and allow it to cool in a refrigerator until it is between room temperature and 0øC. Filter out the crystals that have formed and save them. Boil this solution again and cool as before. Filter and save the crystals. Take the crystals that have been saved, and mix them with distilled water in the following proportions: 56 grams per 100 milliliters distilled water. Heat this solution until it boils and allow to cool. Filter the solution and save the crystals that form upon cooling. This process of purification is called "fractional crystallization". These crystals should be relatively pure potassium chlorate. Powder these to the consistency of face powder, and heat gently to drive off all moisture. Now, melt five parts Vaseline with five parts wax. Dissolve this in white gasoline (camp stove gasoline), and pour this liquid on 90 parts potassium chlorate (the powdered crystals from above) into a plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium chlorate until intimately mixed. Allow all gasoline to evaporate. Finally, place this explosive into a cool, dry place. Avoid friction, sulfur, sulfides, and phosphorous compounds. This explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density of 1.3 grams in a cube and dipped in wax until water proof. These block type charges guarantee the highest detonation velocity. Also, a blasting cap of at least a 3 grade must be used. |
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| 21 Dec 2012 10:08 PM |
| HEY KIDS! TRY THIS AT HOME! |
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| 21 Dec 2012 10:08 PM |
You're posting instructions on how to build a bomb. WHAT THE HELL HAS THIS WORLD COME TO |
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| 21 Dec 2012 10:09 PM |
well
there's one way to use your welfare check |
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| 21 Dec 2012 10:09 PM |
| FOR CHRIST SAKES, THIS IS A FRIGGIN KIDS' SITE! NOT A TERRORIST TRAINING CAMP! |
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142568
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| Joined: 09 Apr 2011 |
| Total Posts: 3725 |
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| 21 Dec 2012 10:10 PM |
| "Don't try this at home" That rule has been broken. |
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cygorx
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| Joined: 09 Nov 2012 |
| Total Posts: 668 |
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| 21 Dec 2012 10:11 PM |
What is that? Is that a call for more? That's a call for more. I HAVE A WHOLE PDF OF THIS.
Let's make some napalm? Pour some gas into an old bowl, or some kind of container. Get some styrofoam and put it in the gas, until the gas won't eat anymore. You should have a sticky syrup. Put it on the end of something (don't touch it). The unused stuff lasts a long time!
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| 21 Dec 2012 10:17 PM |
Can't wait 'tll someone dies.
(But, you gotta admit, it urges you to do it. Napalm FTW!) |
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cygorx
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| Joined: 09 Nov 2012 |
| Total Posts: 668 |
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| 21 Dec 2012 10:17 PM |
Simple smoke bomb. The following reaction should produce a fair amount of smoke. Since this reaction is not all that dangerous you can use larger amounts if necessary 6 pt. ZINC POWDER. 1 pt. SULFUR POWDER. Insert a red hot wire into the pile, step back. You can also colorize the smoke.
Red - Strontium Nitrate Green - Barium Nitrate Yellow - Sodium Nitrate Blue - White - Powdered CopperPowdered Magnesium (or aluminium) Purple - Potassium Permangate (personally my favorite) |
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| 21 Dec 2012 10:20 PM |
| Ok, that's cool. How do you make homemade M80s? |
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cygorx
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| Joined: 09 Nov 2012 |
| Total Posts: 668 |
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| 21 Dec 2012 10:22 PM |
Sorry, blue is powdered copper and white is powdered magnesium or aluminium.
MOOAR.
A different kind of molotov cocktail, yes?
1.Get a coke bottle & fill it with gasoline about half full. 2.Cram a piece of cloth into the neck of it nice and tight. 3.Get a chlorine tablet and stuff it in there. You are going to have to force it because the tablets are bigger than the opening of the bottle. 4.Now find a suitable victim and wing it in their direction. When it hits the pavement or any surface hard enough to break it, and the chlorine and gasoline mix... BOOM.
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| 21 Dec 2012 10:23 PM |
| Btw, found the PDF you have. Says how to make Thermite and Nitroglycerine. |
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cygorx
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| Joined: 09 Nov 2012 |
| Total Posts: 668 |
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| 21 Dec 2012 10:25 PM |
@Strikeout8 Ah, the old m-80. I remember those. 70:30 -- potassium pechlorate:aluminium powder. If you want more information, Google is your friend. |
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| 21 Dec 2012 10:27 PM |
DO IT AT HOME MOLOTOV COCKTAIL SULFUR, POTASSIUM, AND SUGAR I think -- ≈YA KNUW HAOW MUSSH AH PIZZUH CAWSTS LIEK TEN BUCKS≈ |
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cygorx
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| Joined: 09 Nov 2012 |
| Total Posts: 668 |
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| 21 Dec 2012 10:28 PM |
More smoke bomb tutorials! http://youtu.be/xctC0KeZV9s This is seriously one of the smoke bombs that anyone can make at home if they can get their hands on wax, saltpeter and sugar (a heat source as well). I've thrown these at police stations before. Try this at home, kids. |
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| 21 Dec 2012 10:28 PM |
Personaly, I think this sort of information should be commonly available; but the Hippies and the Natzis wan't to consoldate their power by preventing the means for revolution and change.
1+ Respect. |
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cygorx
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| Joined: 09 Nov 2012 |
| Total Posts: 668 |
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| 21 Dec 2012 10:30 PM |
| It is commonly available, you just have to look for it my friend! Knowledge is free. |
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| 21 Dec 2012 10:31 PM |
@KneePhysician
After thinking, I regret what I said. THIS GUY IS AWESOME :D |
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| 21 Dec 2012 10:31 PM |
| Oh I perfectly agree, its just many common medias for distributing this kind of information ban and hunt it down profusely (Facebook, Twitter, ect.). |
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Puffyyy
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| Joined: 12 Oct 2008 |
| Total Posts: 227 |
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| 21 Dec 2012 10:33 PM |
Nitroglycerin is a very high explosive. It is used all around the world to do many different types of jobs. To make nitro here is what you have to do: By weight, one part of glycerin is nitrated with 6 parts of mixed acid. The mixed acid is composed of 40% nitric and 60% sulfuric acid. The sulfuric acid is slowly added to the nitric acid with constant stirring. Never mix them the other way round for they will splatter. Each part of glycerin will yield 2.3 parts of nitroglycerin. The temperature when adding the glycerin to the acids should never go above 25 degrees centigrade. If it does or if red fumes appear, the whole mess should be dumped into cold water fast. Do not take this as an encouragement to make nitroglycerin. It is a dangerous procedure to mix all these types of acids together and can easily be lost control of. |
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cygorx
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| Joined: 09 Nov 2012 |
| Total Posts: 668 |
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| 21 Dec 2012 10:37 PM |
Now we're going to make lye. Fight Club reference. But seriously, this is how to make sodium hydroxide (lye) (NaOH).
Get some distilled water and put it in a large container. Set it aside, get a barrel. Put rocks at the bottom of it, cover it evenly and softly. Get some wood and burn it ADUST. Complete ash. Put the ash inside the prepared barrel and sock the dust in the distilled water. Cover it up and let it sit for three days, then poke a hole in the side of it and allow it to flow out into a prepared container. DO NOT TOUCH THE LYE DIRECTLY! And that, my friends, is how to blow up just about anything.
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cygorx
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| Joined: 09 Nov 2012 |
| Total Posts: 668 |
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| 21 Dec 2012 10:40 PM |
Counterfeiting money!
Before reading this article, it would be a very good idea to get a book on photo offset printing, for this is the method used in counterfeiting US currency. If you are familiar with this method of printing, counterfeiting should be a simple task for you. Genuine currency is made by a process called "gravure", which involves etching a metal block. Since etching a metal block is impossible to do by hand, photo offset printing comes into the process. Photo offset printing starts by making negatives of the currency with a camera, and putting the negatives on a piece of masking material (usually orange in color). The stripped negatives, commonly called "flats", are then exposed to a lithographic plate with an arc light plate maker. The burned plates are then developed with the proper developing chemical. One at a time, these plates are wrapped around the plate cylinder of the press. The press to use should be an 11 by 14 offset, such as the AB 360. Make 2 negatives of the portrait side of the bill, and 1 of the back side. After developing them and letting them dry, take them to a light table. Using opaque on one of the portrait sides, touch out all the green, which is the seal and the serial numbers. The back side does not require any retouching, because it is all one color. Now, make sure all of the negatives are registered (lined up correctly) on the flats. By the way, every time you need another serial number, shoot 1 negative of the portrait side, cut out the serial number, and remove the old serial number from the flat replacing it with the new one. Now you have all 3 flats, and each represents a different color: black, and 2 shades of green (the two shades of green are created by mixing inks). Now you are ready to burn the plates. Take a lithographic plate and etch three marks on it. These marks must be 2 and 9/16 inches apart, starting on one of the short edges. Do the same thing to 2 more plates. Then, take 1 of the flats and place it on the plate, exactly lining the short edge up with the edge of the plate. Burn it, move it up to the next mark, and cover up the exposed area you have already burned. Burn that, and do the same thing 2 more times, moving the flat up one more mark. Do the same process with the other 2 flats (each on a separate plate). Develop all three plates. You should now have 4 images on each plate with an equal space between each bill. The paper you will need will not match exactly, but it will do for most situations. The paper to use should have a 25% rag content. By the way, Disaperf computer paper (invisible perforation) does the job well. Take the paper and load it into the press. Be sure to set the air, buckle, and paper thickness right. Start with the black plate (the plate without the serial numbers). Wrap it around the cylinder and load black ink in. Make sure you run more than you need because there will be a lot of rejects. Then, while that is printing, mix the inks for the serial numbers and the back side. You will need to add some white and maybe yellow to the serial number ink. You also need to add black to the back side. Experiment until you get it right. Now, clean the press and print the other side. You will now have a bill with no green seal or serial numbers. Print a few with one serial number, make another and repeat. Keep doing this until you have as many different numbers as you want. Then cut the bills to the exact size with a paper cutter. You should have printed a large amount of money by now, but there is still one problem; the paper is pure white. To dye it, mix the following in a pan: 2 cups of hot water, 4 tea bags, and about 16 to 20 drops of green food coloring (experiment with this). Dip one of the bills in and compare it to a genuine US bill. Make the necessary adjustments, and dye all the bills. Also, it is a good idea to make them look used. For example, wrinkle them, rub coffee grinds on them, etc. As before mentioned, unless you are familiar with photo offset printing, most of the information in this article will be fairly hard to understand. Along with getting a book on photo offset printing, try to see the movie "To Live and Die in LA". It is about a counterfeiter, and the producer does a pretty good job of showing how to counterfeit. A good book on the subject is "The Poor Man's James Bond". If all of this seems too complicated to you, there is one other method available for counterfeiting: The Canon color laser copier. The Canon can replicate ANYTHING in vibrant color, including US currency. But, once again, the main problem in counterfeiting is the paper used. So, experiment, and good luck! |
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| 21 Dec 2012 10:41 PM |
WOAH.
First we go into bombs, and now something REALLY illegal.
Holy crap. |
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cygorx
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| Joined: 09 Nov 2012 |
| Total Posts: 668 |
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| 21 Dec 2012 10:43 PM |
Please take note that I condone sharing this information and creating, using, selling, distributing, and perverting all of the above listed and I honestly could not care less what the moderators, administrators, government officials nor anyone else has to say.
There is no standard formula for a dry ice bomb, however a generic form is as follows: Take a 2-liter soda bottle, empty it completely, then add about 3/4 Lb of Dry Ice (crushed works best) and (optional) a quantity of water. Depending on the condition of the bottle, the weather, and the amount and temperature of the bottle the bomb will go off in 30 seconds - 5 minutes. Without any water added, the 2-liter bottles will go often in 3-7 minutes if dropped into a warm river, and in 45 minutes to 1 « hours in open air. The explosion sounds equivalent to an M -100. _Plastic_ 16 oz. soda bottles and 1 liter bottles work almost as well as do the 2 -liters, however glass bottles aren't nearly as loud, and can produce dangerous shrapnel. Remember, these are LOUD! A classmate of mine set up 10 bottles in a nearby park without adding water. After the first two went off (there was about 10 minutes between explosions) the Police arrived and spent the next hour trying to find the guy who they thought was setting off M-100's all around them...
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cygorx
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| Joined: 09 Nov 2012 |
| Total Posts: 668 |
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